MAKE YOUR OWN SLOT MACHINE
Making slot machines isn't too difficult.  They have a much easier life than most of the things I've made because they only work when a coin is inserted - unlike clocks and interactive museum exhibits. They are worth the effort because they can be brilliantly satisfying to make. I've split it into 3 sections

 COIN MECHANISMS                CONTROL         SOUND/ VIDEO AND COMPUTERS  


Coin mechanisms
 The coin mechanism checks the coin is genuine, and then switches a momentary electrical contact to start the machine running. If you're not too worried by people putting coins of the wrong value in - and washers etc, its simple to make a coin mechanism yourself. If you want to be sure the correct coin is inserted, buy a commercial coin mechanism. The coin acceptor only makes a momentary contact, so you will also need a circuit to connect it to - see control

 

HOMEMADE COIN MECHANISMS
The simplest way to make a coin mechanism is to buy a low torque microswitch (RS components 339-207, about £3.50).

The weight of a coin is enough to trip the switch as it falls. You can make the coin slot and slide out of metal, plywood or even cardboard.    
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if you know a bit about electronics, its even simpler to use a slotted opto switch or inductive sensor, as adjusting the microswitch can be fiddly.

COMMERCIAL COIN MECHANISMS
There 2 basic types, mechanical and electronic.

In the mechanical ones the coins roll down a slope. Coins of the wrong size and metal fall off and come back out the reject slot below. Genuine coins travel along the slope and off the end, tripping a microswitch as they fall.
The advantages are: they’re simple, can be used outdoors and relatively cheap. Disadvantages are they jam more easily than the electronic ones. The Coin Controls S1 (pictured) is available from Eurocoin for about £30.

Inside the electronic coin mechanisms, the coin rolls past two coils which sense the eddy currents generated by the moving coin. A microprocessor then compares the eddy currents with those of genuine coins, stored in its memory. An electromagnet then deflects fake coins out the reject slot. Real coins produce an output on a serial or parallel port (the parallel port is simplest to use, one pin usually changes state for each coin denomination).


The advantages are that coins jam less often and the electronics can recognise every different coin (some even have logic to add the coins until the required value has been inserted). Commercial arcades prefer them as they take more money because people can use the machine with whatever change they have in their pocket. The disadvantages are that they are more expensive – about £100 from www.brentelectronic.com, and can be less straightforward to connect to the rest of the machine.


The simplest one to use I've found is a Comestero RM5 from www.servicesystem.co.uk. It can be programmed in different ways by the supplier, so you need to discuss your requirements with them. I prefer the totaliser mode, which gives one 100ms pulse for every 10p inserted.

You can also buy a power supply/relay board for it which gives a simple relay .1 sec pulse when the right amount of cash has been inserted. (You change the amount using switches on the coin mech). There is even an add on LED display to show how much has been put in. 
These are the part numbers:

Coin acceptor   CRM5F00
Mini front plate  CRMF-1
Power supply board  CRM925-2-A

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